Learn to Finish Wood Like a Pro
The only thing standing between you and beautiful wood finishing results is the guidance and teaching you'll get from this course. Course creator and instructor Steve Maxwell has been finishing wood since the 1970s. Let him show you five techniques for creating beautiful finishes on wood, even if you've never been pleased with previous results.
This Course Will Teach You How To:
Learn to Finish Wood Like a Pro
The only thing standing between you and beautiful wood finishing results is the guidance and teaching you'll get from this course. Course creator and instructor Steve Maxwell has been finishing wood since the 1970s. Let him show you five techniques for creating beautiful finishes on wood, even if you've never been pleased with previous results.
This Course Will Teach You How To:
Apply a simple transparent wood finish that looks stunning.
Stain interior wood to enhance colour and bring out its full glory.
Create a maintainable oil finish that never needs stripping.
Use coloured finishing oils for long-lasting beauty.
Create stunning distressed chalked paint finishes.
The tricks behind proper pre-finish sanding.
Never worry again about how your next wood finish will turn out. With the know-how you'll get in this course you'll learn to reliably apply a great interior wood finish using different methods every time to create different looks. The finish here is a buffed oil finish that's amazing for tables.
Do you have trouble getting even a simple polyurethane finish to work? Urethane is the most common type of wood finish used by non-professionals, but there are definite tricks to getting glass-smooth results reliably. Learn to get great results even if urethane has been giving you grief for years.
Learn to choose and apply antique-style finishes such as chalked paint and distressed milk paint. In the photo above I'm applying intentional wear to a milk paint finish applied to a stained pine bookcase. If you've never tried chalked paint or milk paint before, you're in for a treat.
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Why Finish Wood?
Fresh, bare wood looks great, so why would anyone want to finish it? There are several reasons, but the main one is protection from stains, water and abrasion. This is true even for interior wood that’s finished. Bare wood is porous, and this means it picks up dirt and moisture easily. Even touching bare wood with dirty fingers can leave behind marks that can’t be wiped off. For rough, outdoor applications, wood can certainly be left bare. Interior wood, however, is rarely left unfinished.
Another reason for finishing wood is to enhance its appearance. Finishing benefits some woods more than others, but in all cases proper finishing results in greater beauty and more attractive grain patterns. Texture and tactile qualities are yet another reason wood gets finished. A smooth, sealed wood surface is more pleasant to touch and it’s certainly better for wiping down and keeping clean than bare wood. Also, different finishes result in somewhat different textures. A high-build varnish oil finish, for instance, has a different feeling under the hand than, say, urethane.
Begin with a piece of fine sandpaper. A piece of half-used 220-grit works well, because it’s lost some of its abrasiveness, or use a fresh piece of 320-grit. Wrap the paper around a a sanding block.
I use a piece of rigid foam insulation as a sanding block. For finish sanding, never use wood as a sanding block because it doesn’t have enough squishiness. You want something with a little bit of resilience, but not too much. Hand sanding now knocks off those dust bumps, and it doesn’t take much time or effort. Just draw the foam and sandpaper back and forth across gently, in the same direction as the wood grain.
At this stage, you're not trying to remove significant amounts of polyurethane; you’re just knocking off those little high spots. A little bit of movement of this sanding block is going to yield a much smoother finish. Use your fingertips to know when you’ve removed the high spots; in this situation they are much more sensitive than your eyes. You'll feel the difference immediately. The surface is going to be smooth, but it's not going to have an even sheen. Where a little more abrasion happens, the sheen will be dull; where less abrasion happens it's going to be shinier.
Next, you’ll refine the surface further, using non-woven abrasive pads. I use those rubbing pads with a random orbit sander. Remove the abrasive disk from the sander. Place the pad on the work surface, the sander on the pad, then switch ON. The sander causes the rubbing pad to vibrate, polishing the surface as it does.
If you want a shine-free finish or something with just a little bit of gloss to it, use only a fine abrasive pad. It'll smoothen the surface and add a bit of sheen plus a silky-smooth surface. If you want a shinier surface, follow this up with a second pass using a superfine pad and the random orbit sander. The more you buff, the shinier things get.
Staining can happen in several ways and with different products, but the idea is always to enhance appearance by adding colour. Staining involves one of two types of products:
Traditional liquid and gel wipe-on-and-wipe-off stains (my favourite for many situations).
All-in-one, wipe-on stain-and-seal products (good but with some drawbacks).
For ultimate smoothness, oil finishes can be buffed in the same way that urethane finishes can. The video below shows the buffing process as it’s applied to the table top refinishing job you saw in the previous video.
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