Everything about dog training is easier if you start it earlier in the
puppy's development, especially socialization and housetraining. The
vast majority of behavior problems in adult dogs could have been easily
prevented during puppyhood. These behavior problems are often the
reason dogs end up abandoned at shelters.
That's why we make
BEFORE & AFTER You Get Your Puppy available as a free download.
This PDF file can actually be customized with your business contact
information and then distributed freely as a valuable promotional tool.
You'll be promoting good puppy-raising practices and thereby helping to
keep dogs out of shelters, all while promoting your own business.
AFTER
You Get Your Puppy covers the last three developmental deadlines that
your puppy needs to meet before he is six months old.
4th Developmental Deadline — Socializing Your Puppy to People
Your
Most Urgent Priority is to socialize your puppy to a wide variety of
people, especially children, men, and strangers, before he is twelve
weeks old. Well-socialized puppies grow up to be wonderful companions,
whereas antisocial dogs are difficult, time-consuming, and potentially
dangerous. As a rule of thumb, your puppy needs to meet at least one
hundred people before he is three months old. Since your puppy is still
too young to venture out to dog parks and sidewalks, you’ll need to
start inviting people to your home right away.
5th Developmental Deadline — Teaching Bite Inhibition
Your
Most Important Priority is that your puppy learns to inhibit the force
of his bites and develop a "soft mouth" before he is eighteen weeks old.
Whenever a dog bites a person, or fights with another dog, the single
most important prognostic factor is the degree of bite inhibition and
hence, the likelihood and seriousness of injury. Accidents happen.
Someone may tread on the dog’s paw, or a child may trip over the dog
while he’s gnawing a bone. A dog may snap and lunge at a person when
hurt or frightened, but if the dog has well-established bite inhibition,
it is unlikely the dog’s teeth will puncture, or even touch the skin.
6th Developmental Deadline — Continuing Socialization in The World at Large
The
Most Enjoyable Priority of dog ownership is to introduce your
well-socialized puppy to the world at large. Your dog will only remain
sociable and confident if he continues to meet and greet at least three
unfamiliar people and three unfamiliar dogs every day. Meeting the same
people and dogs over and over is not sufficient. Your dog needs to
practice meeting, greeting, and getting along with strangers, not simply
getting along with old friends. Regular walks with your dog are as
essential as they are enjoyable.
Day 1 - Business, Promotion, People Training and Games
There’s a lot more to running a dog training business than just training
dogs. It’s important that you have an understanding of the many other
elements, including taxes, employees, independent contractors,
incorporation, and insurance.
Dog training has changed a lot over
the years. It wasn’t that long ago that there were no professional pet
dog trainers. Sure, people have been training dogs for years, but
mostly informally, and often for specific and practical jobs. The
explosion of the popularity of the pet dog has necessitated the creation
of a whole new syllabus and profession.
To be a pet dog trainer
you not only have to know how to train and motivate dogs, you have to
know how to train and motivate their owners. One of the most important
aspects is convinving owners that training will be infinitely easier the
earlier it is begun. Puppy classes allow pet dogs the opportunity to
experience and learn life lessons at the most absorbent time in their
lives. This will allow them to become familiar with the human world and
acquire skills necessary to be a part of the family.
When
starting a career in pet dog training it is really important to educate
yourself. Take the time to listen to speakers that you like and network
at conferences. Assist other trainers or set up apprenticeships with
professionals. Use your online databases to do some research and get
hands on experience by volunteering at a local shelter. Immerse yourself
with dogs to observe dog behavior and learn from them.
The
reason we are in this business is because we love dogs but in fact most
of our job as pet dog trainers is to train people how to train their
dogs. The question is how do you motivate people to want to do it.
Fortunately, once you’ve learned how to train dogs, all you have to do
is take the things you have already learned about reinforcement
schedules and motivation and apply them to your interactions with
people.
Your first employee
should be a receptionist. Hire someone to schedule for you and answer your
phones. If you are not answering
calls then it frees up time for you to work more hours, in turn making more
money.
Telephone people have to
be brilliant. An excellent receptionist will be unfailingly polite and knows
how to ask for a sale in 60 seconds and how to get off the phone respectfully
when a caller wants to chat forever. They will avoiding asking ‘yes’ or ‘no’
questions, instead asking questions that steer people towards becoming a client,.
They use the phone and get off the phone quickly. They need not know about dog
training, and in fact it can be better if they don’t, as they should not be
dispensing free training advice over the phone.
The next quantum leap is
the decision to get a permanent facility. This is one of the last things you
want to do, because it’s a huge investment. Instead, start out with small
satellite rentals in numerous areas for an hourly rate. Now that you are
training classes in different areas schedule your individual consolations in the
same area before or after your class to cut down on travel time.
When you set up prices
for your services to clients, offer three types of options - affordable,
reasonable and outrageously expensive. Make sure that your system for new
clients is in a one input process where they can sign up for a class, pay for
it and get confirmation all on the same web page or in the same phone call.
If you find that you are
‘over worked’ or ‘too busy’, simply increase your prices. You will be amazed at
the increase in profits, and there’s a good chance it will actually increase
your workload, as people assume your higher prices mean higher quality.
Do not waste your time
with clients that do not comply, especially if they are free clients. We all have friends or family that we
want to help out with free training, but ensure that they are willing to do
their part as well, otherwise you’re just wasting your time and energy.
Promotion is all about people compliance. Convince people in your community that you are an above average trainer and make sure that all the neighborhood dogs come to you. Good promotion is word of mouth. Put your name out there so your community has an opportunity to talk about you.
Your website should be fun and interesting. Dog training is fun and your website should represent that. It can be worthwhile to keep simple blog on your website. Use a newsletter service to keep all of your contacts organized and update your clients on classes and schedules. And most importantly have videos. It now becomes entertaining, dynamic and educational.
Having an advertising budget is very important. It is not as important how much your budget is just as long as you have one. So what do you spend your money on? The best bang for your buck would be Google Local Search which is a good option for a low budget. Advertise what you do and where here.
Dog Star Daily offers wonderful resources you can download for free, then customize with your business contact information and distribute to clients as a promotional tool.
A great place to promote your business is the vet clinic. Vets are the first people who see puppies. Visit your local vets and bring promotional material they can hand out to their puppy clients. Offer free classes or lectures to the vet staff. It is a good idea to become good friends with the whole vet staff, as these relationship will greatly help promote your business.
Breeders are also important people to get on your team. Reach out to the local breeder community. Coordinate with your local library to host video nights, free lectures or question and answer sessions for pet dog owners. Give out the free books and downloads from DogStarDaily (customized with your contact info). Contact your local public media outlet and ask to have a time slot where you can run a video you personally recorded while training dogs or giving lectures. Its easy to do and fun!
Much of what we do as dog trainers is
people training. One of the most common mistakes trainers make is they tell
people what to do, they show them how to do it, and that’s the end of it. The most important part of a class or
consultation is watching the owner do the exercise, and making sure they do it
correctly.
The most effective and certainly the
most enjoyable way to get compliance from pet dog owners is by using games. Training
should be fun. It is a great setback to be rude or angry at dog owners. All you
accomplish by making your clients look foolish or belittling them is mistrust
in you. You’ve just distanced them from you and in doing so you have reduced
your ability to help them.
Address the issue of owner compliance
upfront. Give them all the information they need to know before the class or
the consult and expect they will read it. Then test to see if they did their
homework on the first class. Has
the dog and its owner come prepared to learn? Will the puppy take treats from
strangers? They will if the owners did the homework and had some strangers
hand-feed their pup. If not then deal with it right away and demand compliance.
Otherwise it is a waste of everyone’s time. And just remember, dog
behavior never lies.
When a dog comes home the owner faces a
fork in the road. It can be the best dog in the world or it can be a nightmare.
Be able to see and prepare for this fork. Predict and prevent people from going
down the wrong path. Read the warning signs and fix behavior problems before
they start.
When you have a difficult situation
with a client that violently disagrees with you there is no reason to argue.
Don't delay training by arguing over an equipment choice like choke collars and
shock collars. The best choice is no equipment at all, just the trainer and the
treat, but your job as a trainer is to show them you have a better way of
training. It is ok if your clients don't believe you right away. Show them you
have the answers by delivering results.
A great way to practice how to deal
with difficult clients is to role play. An exercise called the Bozo game allows
you and your friends to test each other’s ability to answer silly questions. in
an appropriate and respectful way. If you work in dog training long enough
you’re going to hear some outlandish questions eventually.
People training games are a good way to
practice your training skills and gain a better understanding of how training
can and should work. They can also
help give you the confidence to successfully train dogs for different situations.
When you try to think about
training from the dog’s perspective you get a much better understanding of
training.
Although people games are fun the best
games are those we play with our dogs. There are three main reasons that fames
are great. First it motivates dogs, owners and onlookers. Dogs and their owners
are having a blast and other people see that and are immediately intrigued.
Secondly games offer a way to assess performance. There is only one fastest
recall, quickest sit or longest catch, and games give you an excuse to measure
and record. Lastly games get owner compliance. The easiest way to get 100%
compliance from dog owners is to make training fun and competitive!
Day 2 - Behavior Counseling
Being able
to identify basic behavior problems is very important as a trainer. When
beginning pet dog training the first thing you need to do is teach words. Once
your dog learns what certain words mean then you are capable of giving full
sentence instructions to your dog. You have now broken the communication
barrier.
All this may
come very naturally to you but it is important to remember that these concepts
are not that easy for the average dog owner. It is up to you to teach them how
to communicate with their dogs.
There are six E’s of training pet owners: it has to be easy, efficient,
effective, enjoyable, efficacious and expedient. What you are teaching has to
be simple and produce quick results. It should be fun so the owner and the dog
want to do it and it has to be suitable for everyone in the family to follow
instructions and set themselves up for success.
During
training we attempt to accomplish five things: progressive desensitization, an
increase in frequency of behavior, a decrease in frequency of behavior, putting
a behavior on cue, and putting the absence of behavior on cue. This will allow
you to teach woof and shush or jazz up and settle down. Training in the
presence and absence of a behavior will give you control over the level of
intensity of a certain behavior.
Pet dog
training consists of five reward based training techniques that cue behaviors
to happen: physically promoting, luring, auto shaping, all or none reward
training and shaping. Physically
prompting a training sequence and lure reward training follows the same pattern
of 4 steps – request, prompt or lure, response, reward. Training collars and
leashes are also considered prompts. The idea of lure reward training is taught
without the use of training equipment at all. The most common mistake that
happens when practicing this method is not fading out the lure fast enough. It
can quickly become a bribe and the behavior will become contingent upon getting
a treat reward. The first step is to fade out the lure and then you want to
fade out the food reward. Replace the food with life rewards and you get the
same response.
Auto shaping
is the easiest way to train. One of the best examples of this is chew toy
stuffing. Chewing a toy trains pet dogs to chew on this toy and settle down and
is periodically rewarded when food falls out. Long term confinement is another
great example. This give you total management and is the best way to house
train a pet dog.
All or none
reward training takes time but it is very simple to do because there is to
prompting or instruction. You simply wait for the behavior to take place and
ignore all the rest. Reward desirable behavior and ignore undesirable behavior.
Good behavior will then increase in frequency and bad behavior will decrease in
frequency.
Shaping is a
technique that uses a clicker to shape a behavior with very small
approximations. This method is great for teaching behaviors that are complex with
multiple steps or for something that can simply not be lured.
Classical
conditioning is very important in terms of increasing motivations and creating
a desire to learn. This method of training should never stop with puppies. They
should be experiencing new things all the time and getting feedback and praise
to let them know what they are doing is ok. This way you will have a perfect
temperament and a huggable dog. The easiest way to get a well-socialized dog is
to have puppy parties. Expose them to children, men, music, pass them around to
get touched and handled, stare them in the eyes and smile at them. If all of
this is done at an early age then there is no need for progressive
desensitization.
Repeating a
command to your dog is a good practice to allow. It is more important to follow
up and demand that you are listened to. If you allow your dog to blow you off
he will quickly learn that he only has to listen to you sometimes and not
others. A good rule of thumb is that once you repeat the command the behavior
must be repeated by the dog. Eventually he will learn that if he does it the
first time you ask then he only has to do it once, but if you ask multiply
times then he has to do it multiple times as well. Repetitive reinstruction doesn't
have to be punishing but it must be given with urgency. Use a tone of voice to
get the point across.
It is also a
good idea to teach in all tones of voice. In a case of emergency you are most
likely not going to address the command with a sweet voice instead you will be
screaming. Teach your dog ahead of time that shouting is not bad, in fact it is
rewarded heavily and through association will become positive.
When a dog forgets his manners use specific redirection. By responding with a single word you must communicate three different pieces of information: stop the current behavior, tell them what to do and the potential danger of noncompliance.
When dealing with problem behaviors is it a good idea to put a problem on cue. This not only allows for more control over you dog but you can also use these behaviors as rewards. Some problem behaviors will have to be trained different through trouble shooting techniques or rewarding the cessation of the behavior. Provide an opportunity to set up a controlled learning situation for your dog to actively train and do so often so your dog has a lot of chances to perform the correct behavior.
Total management of your dog or puppy right away is the best way to address problem behaviors before they start. Auto shape them while you are away from home in their long term confinement area with chew toys. Chew toy stuffing and hand feeding is the most important thing you can do for a new puppy. And when you are home short term confinement should to be practiced so you can communicate other important lessons to your puppy like potty training and alone time.
Quantifying
behaviors is really important to see progress from week to week. Objective
quantification is proof of improvement and allows you to offer a prognosis. How
long is it going to take to train your dog and what to expect. It also
helps us determine what the problems really are. For example, is it separation
anxiety or separation fun? Measuring and graphing out levels of activity while
the owner is away will give you valuable information on how to handle a
situation.
When working
with aggression it is really important to properly assess the danger of the
situation. Do you have the ability to take on this case and do you want to? A
level 1 and 2 biter is easy to fix but level 3 is risky. A level 4 case should
be avoided and leave the rest to a professional who handles aggression cases.
Ask and assess what level your clients dog is at. If the dog is reactive and
has never sent a dog or human to the hospital you have a good chance with it. Dogs
that have hospitalized other dogs or humans do not have bite inhibition and
other arrangements should be made for these animals, whether it be euthanasia
or permanent confinement.
Education
should be solution based. What we really need to know is the rank order of
problem behaviors by incidences and their solutions. We currently have behavior
blueprints that explain how to solve such problems. Looking at your behavior
Matrix from your notes will give you a list of behavior problems and how to
solve them in ranking order. When examining the behavior matrix, make sure to
fill out the form with importance and with urgency.
We continue
to examine the behavior matrix and the behavior problems you will see most
often and most common in the household and ways to solve them. House soiling
can be addressed with total management and lure reward techniques on
instructing when and where to go to the bathroom. Destructive chewing also
requires total management, which prevents mistakes and auto shapes good
behavior. Barking can be put on cue, you can reward the cessation of the
barking with all or none reward training, or you can give them something else
to do like chew toys.
It gets a
little unclear when handling separation anxiety cases, is it separation anxiety
or is it an owner absent problem? Diagnosis is very important. With anxiety you
may need the help of a vet. This may take some time and patience to fix but
also some tough love. The dog needs to learn how to be alone. Leaving him with
a chew toy can provide a break in anxiety and adding cues to his environment
will help become secondary reinforces
and relaxers. Chew
toys are a great way to fix most owner absent problems.
Hyper
activity can be put on cue in a game we like to call meet the beast. Now you
should train in a settle command and you have added control over your dogs
levels of activity. You can amp them up and calm them down. Jumping up and
leash pulling and running away can also be put on cue.
Day 3 - Adult Dog Training Classes and Home Training
Unlike Puppy classes, Adult classes do not need to
be comprehensive, and they can be offered in specialty topics like stay
proofing, walking on leash or growl classes. Puppy classes need to be
comprehensive so you can catch behavior problems before they start. With adult
dogs the owner already knows what their problems are and they have most likely
been living with them for some time now.
Dog-reactive dogs often become ostracized in class
settings because they are too much of a distraction to the other dogs and the other
dogs are too much of a distraction for them, so no one gets the training they
deserve. That’s why it’s important that these dogs get their own class.
The Open paw program was developed for shelter
dogs. This is a very fluid environment to attempt a training program and it was
not easy. The first thing that Open Paw initiated was the removal of the food
bowl. Classical conditioning and All or None rReward Training are both very
important methods in helping to make shelter dogs more adoptable. The beautiful
thing about these two types of training is it takes away all expectations. The
dog no longer has to listen to your commands. If you don’t ask them to do
anything then there are no hard feelings when they don’t perform. Frustrations
come from high expectations. On
the other hand, if you simply watch them and wait, it won’t be long before they
do something worth rewarding, whether that’s looking at you, sitting, lying
down or just looking cute and not barking.
In adult classes you would treat the nervous,
scared and shy dogs the same as you would in a shelter. Classically condition
them to accept treats from every person in the room. Treating a dog is a good
temperament test as well. A lot of information can be gathered from whether or
not the dog takes a treat from you. Taking a treat symbolizes trust. If a dog
won’t take a treat from you it could mean that the dog is not comfortable with
you or the environment they’re in.
In any class setting you want to move everyone and
their dogs around a lot so no one develops safe zones. Change the environment
as often as possible. A good idea for an initial exercise is jazz up and settle
down. This is good for any class, but is particularly beneficial for a class
with a bunch of out of control dogs. Put the craziness on cue. Now any time the
environment changes and creates chaos you can have the owners practice settling
their dogs down.
In real life situations you won’t be able to
control the level of your dog’s excitement, so this is how you prepare. The more you practice, the easier it
will be to settle your dog down when there is a truly exciting stimulus, like a
barking dog or someone at the door.
Whenever possible, you should practice settling your dog down when these
exciting stimuli present themselves, so you have more control on those
occasions when your hands are full or you’re otherwise occupied.
Putting undesired behaviors on cue is a good way to
control them. Train your dog to pull on leash, train a slow down and a speed up
behavior for your walk. If your dog enjoys pulling you can now use the pull
behavior as a reward for when they’ve been walking nicely with you on leash.
Now that you have an adult class with all your
adult dogs on leash you can begin with All or None Reward Training for Good
Behavior. It coulodn’t be simpler,
the owners just stand there with their dogs ignoring any bad behavior and
rewarding good behaviors
Some dogs may bark and lunge and act foolish, but
you just ignore them and eventually they settle down, which is something you
can reward them for. By removing
any expectations for a specific behavior, you end up with a very relaxed class,
because there’s no way the owners or dogs can get it wrong.
You can also promote specific behaviors with All or
None Reward Training. For example, if you want to get a dog to pay attention to
you, simply wait for the dog to look at you and then reward them. When they’re not looking at you just
ignore them. As they get the idea
and begin to look at you more you can slowly increase the criteria for a reward
by asking for longer duration looks. You can even make it even more challenging
by turning yourself around and forcing the dog to find your front and look at
you to get a reward.
Lure Reward Training in an Adult class can be done
after you’ve already done Classically Conditioning and All or None Reward Training.
The art of Lure Reward Training is in the lure. What will use as a lure? Be creative. Know what motivates
your dog. Keep in mind that the lure is only necessary for the first few times
you ask for the behavior. Once
your dog has repeated the behavior a few times you can slowly start to phase
out the lure and replace it with a hand signal. Eventually you’ll also want to
phase out the use of food as a reward, and instead start rewarding your dog
with life rewards, the activities and privileges that they enjoy as part of
their every day doggy life.
Any time you
take a dogs leash off you have to worry about its safety. One of the best
things you can do is train an Emergency Sit command. With just one command we
reduce the complexity of off leash behaviors to one reliable command and then
we can integrate it into every activity your dog is doing. A recall is not the
best emergency command because there are situations where you would not want
your dog to run back to you (let’s say they’ve already run across a busy street).
It’s
important to practice your Emergency Sit command using the tone of voice that
you might use in an emergency situation.
Otherwise they’re not going to be very reliable when you find yourself
in a real emergency. Another important element for achieving a reliable
Emergency Sit command is building distance control. Ask for compliance at increasingly longdistances,
with increasingly high levels of distractions.
Test your reliability with distance
stays. The only way to stop a dog from releasing from a distance stay is to
have a distance command. Redirection is a great tool to accomplish this, if
you’re dog is practicing a down stay and they look like they’re about to break
you can remind them to “Down”. Initial instruction should be tone neutral and
the redirection can use a more urgent tone to tell them that they need to focus.
When we start working on distance control just remember that every time you
take a step away from your dog it becomes a new behavior and your reliability
is probably going to decrease. But with a few repetitions you can get the
reliability back, and then take another step away and repeat.
Most pet owners would be perfectly
happy if all they had was a lighting fast sit a rock solid stay and a dog that
walked on a loose leash. Proof these behaviors to distance, distractions, and
duration. Misbehavior is a learning experience, so it is ok if dog’s fails a
little. If you redirect them to
the appropriate behavior they will learn from their mistakes.
In a Stay Proofing class your job as a
trainer is to distract the dogs and entice them into breaking their stays. It’s a lot of fun and you can get
really creative here. Use treats, balls, toys and loud noises but do so in
small increments and slowly increase intensity. You can also use the other dogs
in the class as distractions, perhaps letting one dog roam freely while the
others are maintaining a Stay. If
you have them in your class, the best distraction is likely to be children, so
try and incorporate them in your Stay Proofing.
In a Heeling class you can use All or
None Reward Training or Lure Reward Training to get a heel behavior. First you
must teach the dog the rules of heeling. Teach walking off leash first and then
heeling on leash second. It is important for the dog to learn the heel position
before you even begin to move. Position is very important because it changes
context and comprehension levels and response reliability drops if the dog is out
of position. If your dog leaves the heeling position the first thing you need
to do is get them back into the correct position.
Most dogs are terrible on leash because
when the leash is tight they no longer have to pay attention to you. If you
keep walking with a tight leash your dog will never pay attention to you. Walking
is a reward, so why would you want to reward the bad behavior of pulling on
leash? If you stop walking, how
long will it take for your dog to look at you? Time it. Then stop often and
wait for your dog to acknowledge you. During a walk stop frequently and use
that opportunity to get your dogs attention and reward them by continuing the walk.
Growl classes for dog-reactive dogs are
a wonderful specialty class to offer for adult dogs. Dog reactivity decrease
the quality of life tremendously, so these problems really need to be
addressed, but these dogs should not be in a normal adult class. They need to
have their own class.
You first must make sure it is a safe
environment with safe dogs. What is causing the problem? Assessing the severity
of each dog’s aggression problem is very important. Get a full history in
detail. If there is danger because the dog doesn’t have bite inhibition then he
is not welcome in class. Dogs in growl class are dogs that have been in numerous
fights but have not sent another dog to the vet. Objectively assess the
situation and look at their fight/bite ratio.
Classical conditioning and All or None
Reward Training are the only techniques you should use. A loose leash and
muzzle is a must. Time is your friend and patience is key. Don't rush a growl
class. Move people around in class so the dogs find themselves in different
settings around different dogs. Classically condition first to get dogs
comfortable with the situation, then start All or None Reward Training to shape
good behavior. A Growl class can
be a bit of a roller coaster, starting with a lot of excitement and energy, but
eventually the dogs will settle down and gain a very positive experience.
Then take the leashes off and explain the
safety and allow the dogs to work things out on their own. Stop fights when
they happen because they will happen. If it happens more then once take one of
the dogs out for a couple of minutes then let it back in and take the other dog
out for a couple of minutes, allowing each to get a chance to socialize with
the other dogs. If one dog changes behavior then all the dogs change behavior.
Praise good behavior and good interactions A LOT. Don't take good behavior for
granted.
Day 4 - Puppy Classes and Home Training
Before you start a puppy class it is a good idea to have
a private consult with your new clients in the home so you can assess their home
set-up and make sure they are house training and feeding their puppy properly.
Puppy proof the house and add in enrichment for their puppy to keep them active
while they’re on their own.
Make sure that you discuss bite inhibition at this time and
explain that it is OK to bite. The more the puppy bites as a puppy the safer he
will be as an adult. Don't stop frequency before decreasing force. Mouthing is
essential but only on hands and never on clothing, which is not able to feel
the amount of force and give the appropriate feedback. Explain to your clients
the importance of beginning a socialization schedule right away. Their puppy needs
to meet lot's of people before they even take a puppy class.
Now the puppy is ready for class. Owners will never
forget puppy class and as the trainer you have to be great and have fun and
smile. Make sure your clients are having fun. You have to be a good leader and
it has to be a jolly place. Tell every dog you love them. Always greet people
when they come in and hug them on the way out. Talk to all the puppies and get
the puppies off leash the whole time.
Make sure you are looking at all the puppies in your
puppy class and looking for erly signs of propnlems so that you can address them
before they start. Prevention is key. If you can nip a problem in the bud you
should pat yourself on the back, because you just saved a puppy and increased
their quality of life.
You should get insurance before you teach a class. Be
very careful because anyone can sue you at any time. Make it a happy place to
be and then they won't want to sue you. Deal with complaints right away.
The most common problem in a puppy class is to have a bully
and a fearful dog. Fearfulness and bullying must be addressed immediately. Both
situations can be devastating for that
dog’s long-term quality of life, unless you deal with it now.
Fearful dogs
are suffering unnecessarily. It’s
as if they were in a metal box covered with snakes and spiders and rats,
suspended to 300 ft in the air, naked in the dark and they have to give a
public speeches everyday of their lives. Don’t let another day go by where they are left to live with
anxiety.
Bullies are usually just over the top players and need to
know how to act appropriately with other dogs. If they don’t learn these skills
they’re going to get to go on fewer walks and enjoy less time off-leash,
because their owners will be worried about them hurting another dog. When talking to the bully puppy give
lots of praise and reprimand over the top behavior. Be insistent. Don't give up
your instruction with a bully puppy. If that doesn’t work bring him into your Puppy
2 class and the bully will then be bullied by safe and reliable older dogs. This can have and immediate and profound
effect on temperament.
Everyone is biased against reactive dogs, but reactivity can
be a good thing because it’s the only way to learn about a dog’s bite
inhibition. Why do puppies have needle sharp teeth? To learn bite inhibition. When
a puppy bites it hurts, giving you a chance to communicate that they used too
much pressure. If a puppy never mouths then they don’t learn bite
inhibition and they become potentially more dangerous in the future. Similarly until you’ve seen a dog react
you don’t know what their bite inhibition is like. If a dog has bitten on multiple occasions but never caused
real damage, you can be fairly confident that they have solid bite inhibition,
and while you have a problem that needs to be addressed, it is a manageable
problem that is not very dangerous.
If you have a dog that has never bitten, you don’t know how much damage
they will do if they ever do bite, so you have an unknown level of danger.
Puppies should be 12-18 weeks on the first week of class.
The most common argument for why this should not happen is concern about
spreading Parvo. Some people believe that the risk of contracting Parvo is
significant enough that it makes puppy classes unsafe, but it is possible to
maintain a very safe puppy class. The real danger comes from the bottom of your
shoes. And there are many riskier places than a regularly disinfected puppy
class room, like for example a vet’s parking lot and waiting room.
In a puppy class, keep everyone active and training the
whole time. Everything you say is an instruction on what to do next. Don't
lecture and leave demonstrating to a minimum. People should do the training
themselves. If people can't train in your class they can't train at home. Make
sure they do it correctly in front of you. They should be handling their own
dogs and all the other dogs the whole time.
Quantify your progress. Several years ago an exam was
created to test if puppy classes worked. Test week one and week six, it is that
easy. Plot the progress and you will see that puppy classes work. Then plot the
changes in each behavior and the response reliability between hand signals and
verbal commands.
There is no research in dog training as to what are the
quickest ways to train a behavior. We need a base for behaviors on how long it
takes to accomplish a behavior and have reliability. A study you can do is time
and trials to criteria. Count trials or repetitions before the dog completes a
behavior after the initial command. Then how long does it take to get their response
reliability up to a criteria. Be sure to explain your techniques.
Solicit owner evaluations for your classes and always
work to improve your classes. Find ways to make training more fun, quicker and
easier. Pay attention to your evaluations. These evaluations are usually based
on whether or not they like you. You want to be loved by your clients so they
keep bringing their dogs to you and recommending you to their friends, and you
want your classes to produce huge increases in response reliability, so your
clients have control over their dogs and enjoy a high quality of life together.
Your syllabus for each class should reflect the
most common behavior and training problems. List them all in rank order of
importance and there you have your syllabus. Which behaviors are urgent, which
ones are dangerous? Define what is urgent and dangerous. Which training
techniques cause owners most difficulty and what are the questions most dog
owners have? Cover everything you think is important.
In your notes you have a list of some very
important things to address in class. Bite inhibition, socialization, household
etiquette, being home alone, sitting, settling and bullying are all great
things to tackle. Make sure they are off leash the whole time. Play lots of
games and give out prizes or ribbons. Discuss the Emergency Sit and how to get
reliable Downs. The highway recall is a good exercise. And make sure there’s
plenty of time for handling, gentling and desensitization.
In a puppy class you will have puppies off leash,
so how do you practice heeling? Following exercises are a fun way to keep your
puppy by your side so you can eventually turn it into a heel behavior. Engage
your dog and so that they want to follow you and interact with you on a walk. A
very important skill for owners to learn is how to manipulate their dogs on their
walks. Teach them to walk faster, slower and closer. This is done by speeding
up and slowing down your own pace. Take back control of the walk.
Walking on trails is very similar. Train your dog
to follow you on trails by using lots of games and exercises. Change direction
often, play hide and seek if they get too far ahead. These games teach them to
pay attention to where you are.
Open field follow is very difficult. The key is to
walk away from the dog no matter what, and never follow them. Change direction
constantly. Don't accommodate for your dog. Do this correctly and you’ll see an
bungee cord effect, where as you move away from your dog, they snap back
towards you. Practice this often
and you’ll and up with a dog that is always paying attention to you and ready
to follow your every (unpredictable) move.
There are very different skills you must have when
teaching a puppy class vs an adult class. It is easy and fun and you just need
to remember a couple of basics to be successful.
A great and fun way to desensitize the puppies for
anything in life is to have your students bring in costumes and dress up. Tell
them to act silly or wear masks. If you have a wheelchair bring that in or blow
up some balloons. Anything a dog might encounter in life, bring it to class.
Now they wont fear it later in adulthood because they saw it in puppyhood. Then
these dogs are ready to face the world and all its scary things.
In more advanced puppy classes start teaching them
vocabulary. Teach Go To behaviors and names for things to go to. Teach them
what things are and what they mean. Teach them names of people. 'Fetch' is
another great game to teach your dog to build their vocabulary, asking them to
fetch specific items. These are all great ways to exercise your dog on a rainy
day.
Congratulations on Completing This Course
Behavior Blueprints
Cat Manners
Come, Sit, Down, Stay
Destructive Chewing
Digging Problems
Dogs and Children
Excessive Barking
Fear of People
Fighting with Dogs
Home Alone
Housetraining
Hyper Dog
New Adult Dog
New Puppy
Puppy Biting
Puppy Training
Walking on Leash